1. Hassan II died in July 1999 and was succeeded by his son, Mohammed ibn al-Hassan who took the throne as Sultan Mohammed VI. At the time of my visit to the Maghreb, Hassan Deux was still on the throne, in indifferent health.

2. The Koutubia or Qutubia mosque was build by the Almohads in the 12th century, next to the souq that sold books (kitabs). Its amazingly contemporary-looking minaret, one of the earliest to exhibit the rectangular cross-section and clean lines characterizing Andalusian architecture, is not only a symbol for Marrakech or Morocco, but for the achievement of Andalus in general.

3. The Glaoua tribal chief Thami, made Pasha of Marrakech by the French in 1918, regularly horrified his European patrons by hanging the heads of his enemies from the gates of Marrakech – a practice that he apparently continued with impunity well into the 1940s.

4. From Ibn Abd-el-Hakem, History of the Conquest of Spain, trans. by John Harris Jones (Gottingen, W. Fr. Kaestner, 1858), pp. 18-22 . This text is part of the Internet Medieval Source Book.

5. Sylvie Kennedy has written an eponymous mocking and vaguely patronizing book, based on her travels to Morocco around the time of the Gulf War.

6. Ibn Khaldûn, The Muqaddimah, An Introduction to History, Trans. By Franz Rosenthal, Ed. by NJ Dawood, Bollinger Series/Pinceton, 1967, 9th printing 1989, p ix.

7. Ibid, p 13. Khaldun’s tendency to scoff at ‘Israelite stories’ of the Old Testament does not, however, seem to extend to Quranic stories; he subscribes to the miracle of the revelation, and his treatment of Muhammad and his companions is that of a deeply pious man. Of course, it is also possible he was cautious enough to stay on the right side of Islamic theocracy.

8. In Roman times, Polybius, influenced by Aristotle, spoke of a similar cycle: from monarchy to tyranny to aristocracy to democracy to aristocracy and back again.

9. Ibn Khaldûn, The Muqaddimah, An Introduction to History, Trans. By Franz Rosenthal, Ed. by NJ Dawood, Bollinger Series/Pinceton, 1967, 9th printing 1989, p 105.

10. To focus only on Runnymede and the subsequent English parliamentary tradition in this regard would be guilty of two mistakes, one of fact and the other of perspective. First, the Poles and the Lithuanians developed important legal and parliamentary traditions that, in several aspects such as taxation only with representation as well as habeas corpus, precede English ones. Second, the English parliamentarism permitted no universal adult suffrage, no independence for judges, no immunity for jurors, no freedom of speech till fairly late. Even in the late nineteenth century, the Ilbert Bill, which would have made it possible for Indian magistrates to try Englishmen in India, failed to pass – something that Ibn Khaldûn would have recognized as a result of English asabiya.

Similarly, the liberté, egalité, fraternité of the French Revolution gave rise, not to the brotherhood of men in communes, but to Napoleon. The rise of the individual follows a tortuous path, and the industrial revolution helped more than a little in speeding up Europe along it.

11. Ibn Khaldûn, The Muqaddimah, An Introduction to History, Trans. By Franz Rosenthal, Ed. by NJ Dawood, Bollinger Series/Pinceton, 1967, 9th printing 1989, p 105. p 49.

12. Resolution 3292 of December 13, 1974.

13. Since the Alawite Sultans claim descent from Mohammed’s daughter Fatima, they are Sharifs, of the Prophet’s family.

14. ‘Western Sahara: Where the women still wait for the chance to go home’ -- Lara Marlowe; carried in the Irish Times, 01/05/97.